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Winterizing Your Irrigation System

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Winterizing your irrigation system

In central Texas our mild winter climate makes it unnecessary to winterize our underground irrigation pipes by draining or blowing them out with compressed air. The ground doesn’t freeze very deep here, and the soil insulates the pipes. However, we do experience freezing temperatures and hard freezes, and should make certain preparations to protect our irrigation systems. 

Backflow Prevention Assemblies

Backflow prevention assemblies (BPAs) can be turned off and drained, but in order to keep the irrigation system operational during the winter it’s a better option to wrap and insulate them. Wrap the BPA in foam pipe wrap, and tape it with heavy rubber tape for waterproofing. You can also use fiberglass pipe insulation wrap with plastic or heavy rubber tape to keep the insulation dry — it won’t insulate if it becomes wet. Some people prefer to use R-11 fiberglass insulation. No matter what you use, drain the outlets and make sure the air vents aren’t blocked.

Once the BPA is wrapped with some type of insulation, you can then cover it with an insulating pouch that has a bottom opening. Add further freeze protection by placing an insulated enclosure on top of the pouch. Some even look like rocks to blend into the landscape. You can leave the insulation on all year round if you wish — just be sure to check for any damage, and replace it as needed for the next winter season.

Isolation Valve

The isolation valve for the irrigation system has to be “freeze-proof”. It can be inside a heated room, or if outside, buried below the frost line or wrapped with insulation. Use fiberglass pipe insulation wrap, or foam insulation wrap, and heavy rubber tape to keep it dry.

According to the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality, “all new irrigation systems must include an isolation valve between the water meter and the backflow prevention device” (Title 30 TAC Section 344.62 (k)). Without this valve you’ll have to shut the water off to the whole house whenever you want to work on the irrigation system.

Above-Ground Pipes and Valves

Above-ground pipes have to be insulated. Self-sticking foam insulating tape or fiberglass insulation wrapped around the pipes works well, as do foam insulating tubes. The sprinkler manifold and valves are usually housed in a valve box below ground, but sometimes the valves are above ground, in which case they need to be wrapped and covered with an insulating pouch.

Controllers

For winter operation, turn your controller to the “seasonal adjust” setting, which changes the zone run times to a percentage of the irrigation schedule for warmer seasons.

If your controller doesn’t already have various sensors, additional ones can be installed to help with efficient winter irrigation.

Rain sensors will turn off your system after a specified amount of rainfall, or as soon as it starts to rain. In Texas, it’s required by the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality (TCEQ) that all new automated irrigation systems, and repairs requiring replacement controllers, must include an approved rain sensor (Title 30 TAC Section 344.62 (j)).

Freeze sensors turn your system off when a specified temperature is reached — usually 35°F. Freeze and rain sensors are sometimes combined.

Soil moisture sensors measure the soil moisture content in the root zone, and either bypass or interrupt the irrigation cycle if the moisture is above a specified amount. If the soil gets too dry, the sensor will turn the cycle back on. Some soil moisture sensors also include a soil freeze sensor that interrupts the irrigation cycle if the temperature dips below 35°F.

Wind sensors interrupt the irrigation cycle if the wind speed exceeds a programmed threshold.

Weather-based smart controllers use local weather information to adjust irrigation schedules and can be set up for daily seasonal adjustments. Some gather information from a publicly available source, some use pre-programmed historic data, and some use real time data collected on site. These controllers skip irrigation cycles based on user-programmed thresholds for rain amounts, freeze temperatures, wind speeds, and soil moisture levels.

Hard Freeze Forecasts

When a hard freeze is forecast (air temperature falls to 28 degrees or lower and then stays below 32 degrees long enough to freeze vegetation and cause ice formation in standing water) take the following steps:

  1. Turn the isolation valve off to shut off the water supply to the irrigation system.
  2. Shut down the controller. Depending on the type of controller you have, turn it to the “rain” setting to shut off signals to the valves, or to the “off” setting. On some controllers there is no “off” setting — you suspend the zones for a certain period of time. All your programming will stay intact. For mechanical controllers, turn the selector switch to the “off” position. You’ll lose your settings and will have to reprogram when the freeze is over.
  3. Drain water out of gear-drive rotor sprinklers installed above ground so they don’t freeze and rupture. If the water doesn’t drain out on its own, you’ll have to install a drain valve on the sprinkler supply pipe. The check valves on many rotors prevent the water from draining out, so in that case you’ll have to remove the rotors, shake the water out, and replace them.

Running Your Sprinkler System During the Winter

Your lawn goes dormant over the winter and doesn’t need to be watered as often. However, you should be irrigating your lawn once or twice a month to maintain a healthy root system that supports new growth in the spring.

Running your system during the winter also prevents the following problems:

  • Stagnant water in pipes growing algae that will later clog up sprinklers.
  • Sprinkler gaskets and seals drying out and cracking.
  • Roots growing into sprinklers.
  • Insects crawling into sprinklers and laying eggs.
  • Valve diaphragms drying out and splitting.
  • Valves getting stuck.
  • Dust and dry dirt working their way into sprinklers.

Running your sprinklers in the winter moves stagnant water out of the pipes, lubricates seals and diaphragms, and blows dirt, roots, and insects out of the system.

Call the experts at South Austin Irrigation at (512) 534-7449 or fill out our Service Request form for professional maintenance and repair to your sprinkler system.

Testing Your Backflow Preventer

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The City of Austin takes protection of water very seriously.  Spencer Cronk, Austin City Manager, is quoted as saying “Austin has a history of protecting its water quality and making that water quality good for future generations”.  

One of the measures that the City of Austin and other Texas municipalities take is the strict requirement for installation, maintenance, and testing of backflow prevention devices on sprinkler systems.

This legislation was implemented for very good reasons. 

The regulations requiring backflow devices are rooted in real-world incidents that occurred in various states (including Texas) where drinking water became contaminated with such things as herbicides, industrial chemicals, photo developing solutions, dangerous bacteria, and other harmful substances.  

City of Austin Regulations

Did you know that:

The reason you need a backflow prevention device (also called a backflow prevention assembly, or BPA) on your irrigation system has to do with cross connections. A cross connection is any potential or actual physical connection between a public water system or consumer’s drinking (potable) water system and a source of contamination, such as sewage, harmful chemicals, and nonpotable water (untreated water from lakes, rivers, groundwater, natural springs, and untested ground wells).

Because of a cross connection, contamination hazards can enter the potable water system by means of backflow, which is water flowing opposite to its intended direction. This either occurs due to backpressure (downstream pressure is higher than potable water supply pressure), or back-siphonage (negative pressure in the consumer’s potable water system or in the public system).

Sprinkler irrigation systems are usually a direct cross connection to potable water systems through pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads. Pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, and animal waste can collect in pools of water around the sprinkler heads and be drawn into a home’s potable water supply during a backflow event. Parasites, insect larvae, and pathogens can also be living in the irrigation system’s water.

Your public water system provider and the licensed professional who installed your system are responsible for determining the type of BPA required on your property, depending on whether there are potential health or non-health hazards. The BPA must also be approved by the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality (TCEQ), the American Society of Sanitary Engineers, the University of Southern California Foundation for Cross-Connection Control and Hydraulic Research, and the Uniform Plumbing Code.

Both your public water system provider, and licensed irrigation professional are required to follow the TCEQ Cross Connection Control Program rules laid out in the Texas Administrative Code, Title 30, Chapter 290, Subchapter D, Rules and Regulations for Public Water Suppliers.

Austin Water administers its own Cross Connection Control/Water Protection Program based on these requirements, and the regulations for their program are in Chapter 15-1 of the city’s ordinances. You’ll also find Austin’s adopted Plumbing Code and local amendments in Chapter 25-12, Article 6.

Backflow Prevention Assembly Types 

Air Gap

  • There must be an unobstructed physical separation.
  • The vertical, physical separation must be at least twice the diameter of the water supply outlet, but never less than 1.0 inch.
  • Effective against backpressure backflow and back-siphonage.
  • Provides protection in low and high hazard situations.

Reduced-Pressure Backflow Assembly (RBPA)

  • Install at least 12 inches above the floor or finished grade, with adequate clearance for testing and maintenance.
  • Effective against backpressure backflow and back-siphonage.
  • Provides protection in low and high hazard situations.
  • Must be installed when fertilizer, insect repellent, or any other chemical is injected into an irrigation system (30 TAC 344.51 (c)).

Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB)

  • Install at a minimum of 12 inches above the highest point in the water system downstream of all piping and outlets, with adequate clearance for testing and maintenance.
  • Effective against back-siphonage only.
  • Provides protection in low and high hazard situations.

Double Check Valve Assembly (DCVA)

  • Install at least 12 inches above the floor or finished grade, with adequate clearance for testing and maintenance.
  • Effective against backpressure backflow and back-siphonage.
  • Provides protection in low hazard situations.

Reduced Pressure Zone Vale (RPZ)

  • Install at least 12 inches above the floor or finished grade, with adequate clearance for testing and maintenance.
  • Effective against backpressure backflow and back-siphonage.
  • Provides protection in low and high hazard situations.

Backflow Prevention Assembly Tester (BPAT) License

Anyone who repairs or tests the installation or operation of BPAs on any domestic, commercial, industrial, or irrigation service must be licensed by the TCEQ and registered with Austin Water Utility. Applicants must meet certain education and work requirements, submit a criminal history attestation, complete a 40-hour course accredited and accepted by the TCEQ, and pass the TCEQ exam to receive the TCEQ BPAT license.

Upon receipt of his license, the BPAT must submit an Austin Water Utility BPAT registration and the test gauge he’ll be using, along with a certificate verifying the test gauge passed calibration test requirements within the last 12 months (gauges must be tested for accuracy at least once a year). Once licensed, the BPAT must complete a TCEQ-accredited 8-hour continuing education course each year to qualify for license renewal every 3 years (8 of the 24 hours must be hands-on training). He must also renew his registration with the Austin Water Utility when renewing his license.

Testing Standards

BPAs must be tested using procedures approved by the TCEQ found in the University of Southern California’s Cross Connection Manual (USC-CCM). These procedures are set up to fail a BPA before it would allow backflow to contaminate the drinking water supply. The equipment used by a BPAT must be calibrated within acceptable tolerances by an approved gauge testing company, as set out in USC-CCM.

Testing and Maintenance Reports (TMRs)

A testing and maintenance report must be completed by the BPAT for each BPA tested, and submitted to Austin Water Utility within 5 calendar days of the test. It can be entered online in the WEIRS database or sent to the Special Services Division (SSD) as a hard copy. The customer also gets a copy.

Along with required information on the TMR, the BPAT must document illegal or unapproved installations, as well as unprotected cross connections. A BPA that is illegal or unapproved must be reinstalled or replaced with one that meets manufacturer’s recommendations and/or local codes, even if it passed the test.

A TMR must also be submitted for each BPA removed or replaced. If the hazard remains, then the BPA has to be replaced for continued backflow protection. If the hazard no longer exists, the BPA can remain, but the situation must be reported to the Special Services Division. The BPA can then be designated “out of service” in the WEIRS database, which removes its testing requirements.

During the testing, if the BPAT sees the assembly will fail the test and needs repair, he must repair it, and retest after the repair. There are sections on the TMR to document these actions.

Customer Responsibilities

Customers must arrange and pay for BPA testing and any related costs, such as repairs, overhauls, and replacements of assemblies that fail the testing.

Customers who have devices registered with the Austin Water Utility’s Special Services Division are sent reminder notices each year for their BPA testing. Two notices are sent — the first in the calendar month prior to the due date, and the second in the month of the due date. Customers who have never registered their required assemblies may not receive notices. This doesn’t exempt them from their testing, maintenance, and reporting requirements. Failing to meet these obligations is a violation of Chapter 15-1 of the Austin City Code, which could result in criminal penalties, fines for each day of non-compliance, and suspension of water service.

Austin Water provides a number of resources on their website to help customers manage their BPA requirements, such as a list of approved BPAs, a water protection hazard list, a list of BPATs, and a test and maintenance requirement section where the customer can check notices.

South Austin Irrigation provides expert commercial and residential sprinkler system repairs, backflow replacement and installation, and service.  We are Licensed Irrigators.  

Call us at (512) 534-7449 to have your backflow prevention device tested.  

The High Cost of Hiring an Unlicensed Irrigator

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Using an unlicensed irrigator to install your sprinkler system may seem to save you some money upfront, but in the long run it’s going to cost you more for repairs and to re-do the installation properly. 

Not only is it risky to hire an unlicensed irrigator, but the law in Texas stipulates that “a person may not sell, design, install, maintain, alter, repair, service or inspect an irrigation system — or consult in these activities — in this state, unless the person is licensed by the TCEQ.” 

Chances are that unless you hired a trained, licensed irrigator, there are some hidden disasters waiting to happen in your sprinkler system.

The Importance of design

A successful irrigation system starts with a proper design. And it’s much more than deciding where to put sprinkler heads. Some of the basics include:

  • Checking local codes and permit requirements.
  • Locating site utilities.
  • Determining soil type.
  • Obtaining or drawing a site plan to scale and comparing it to the site.
  • Determining water pressure (psi) and gallons per minute (GPM) available from the water connection.
  • Calculating pressure losses from chosen sprinkler equipment (e.g. water meter, backflow preventer, sprinkler heads, etc.).
  • Making pressure loss adjustments to balance the system.
  • Determining the correct distance between sprinklers, their precipitation rate, and the GPM for each head.
  • Marking the sprinkler heads on the plan. 
  • Identifying hyro-zones for various plants and creating valve zones.
  • Drawing in the pipe layout.
  • Calculating lateral piping sizes.

A poorly designed plan by unlicensed irrigators, or no plan at all, creates many problems. Here are some issues that licensed irrigators run across, and have to diagnose and repair:

  1. Incorrect head layouts

Too many sprinkler heads on one zone lowers the water pressure for each head. The heads will barely shoot water, and the lower pressure can also prevent pop-up sprinklers from popping up. Too few sprinkler heads leads to inadequate coverage of plant material. Some areas will be under-watered, becoming dry and brown, while others near the sprinkler will be over-watered, as the homeowner tries to compensate by irrigating more often. The spray from each sprinkler should be reaching all the way to the next sprinkler in each direction for 100 percent overlap, in what is known as head-to-head coverage.

Runoff occurs when sprinkler heads are installed too close to structures, sidewalks, and driveways.

  1. Mixed heads with different pressure ratings and precipitation rates in the same zone

You should only use sprinklers with matched precipitation rates and pressure ratings in the same zone. Stick with one brand and model of sprinkler for the zone because precipitation rates differ between makes and models — if you mix a high precipitation sprinkler with a low one in the same valve zone, one area will be over-watered, and one will be under-watered. It’s fine to use a different type of sprinkler in a separate zone (e.g. brand “x” spray heads for a small lawn area on one valve, brand “y” emitters for the garden on another valve, and brand “z” for rotors for a larger lawn area on a third valve).

Also, in order to achieve matched precipitation rates in a watering zone, a professional knows how to choose the correct GPM nozzles for rotor sprinklers in order to proportionally match their precipitation/application rates. A rotor that’s watering a 1/2 circle should have a nozzle installed that is applying 1/2 of the GPM that the nozzle in a full circle rotor sprinkler in the same zone is applying.

Nozzles for spray sprinklers also need to be matched for precipitation rates and distance in the same zone. You can’t just take a different brand nozzle and screw it on a sprinkler body if the performance specifications aren’t the same, and expect it to work properly.

  1. Improper installation of drip tubing and emitters

A trained, licensed installer has to match the proper emitters with the needs of the plants and the soil type. If the emitters are placed too far apart, are too few in number, or don’t meet watering needs, the plant roots may not develop properly. 

Types of emitters include: soaker hose, pre-installed emitter lines, punch-in emitters, micro sprays, and micro bubblers. Soaker hoses, emitter hoses, and micro sprays are better suited for closely spaced plants, while drip emitters are better for areas with wider spaces between plants, or for separate plant containers. Micro sprays are not as efficient as ground drip emitters, as they can lose water due to evaporation.

Micro bubblers are best for larger plants, such as shrubs or roses, and for filling the basins around newly planted trees. The micro sprays and bubblers should be placed on a different zone from the emitters due to their higher flow rates. 

In-line drip tubing (with pre-installed emitters) should be laid at 18- or 24-inch intervals. Unlicensed irrigators have installed the tubing incorrectly by running it in areas where there were no plants, running the lines too close together, not placing the tubing close enough to the plants, and creating tangled, overlapping piles of tubing.

User-installed, or punch-in emitters, provide more versatility than in-line tubing, and allow customization for a variety of plant sizes and irregular plant spacing. These can be installed on in-line tubing as well. A licensed irrigator has to know the output rates for various emitters, which range from 1/2 to 4 gallons per hour (GPH), so he can compensate for plants close together with differing water needs.

Unlicensed irrigators also cut costs by using emitters that clog easily and distribute water unevenly, rather than installing the better quality turbulent-flow, diaphragm, adjustable, or pressure compensating emitters.

Wiring issues

Troubleshooting the irrigation electrical system can take many hours. Often the problem comes down to shoddy workmanship, and the use of improper materials by unlicensed irrigators. For example, regular splice caps being used rather than special waterproof splice connectors. Any water leaking into the splice will corrode the wire and short it out, or create an electrical open. Sometimes wires are stripped too far back, or twisted too loose or too tight, and fail after only one or two years. You’ll also find many inappropriate types of wire not approved for direct burial, such as communications cables, speaker wire, thermostat wire, telephone wire, and lamp cord.

Inadequate trenching

In temperate zones, the typical pipe used for lateral pipes is 1-inch CL (Class) 200 PVC (polyvinyl chloride). It performs well under frequent use and higher water pressures. The recommended sealer for threaded fittings is PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) thread seal tape, often called Teflon tape. This tape needs to be wrapped correctly with the right thickness to create a strong, leak-proof pipe.

For slip connections, PVC primer and cement are used (“solvent welding”). Unlicensed irrigators often take shortcuts by using only the primer or cement. Sometimes they also just glue the fitting and not the pipe, or vice versa — the result being future leaks needing repair. They also cut corners by not burying all the barbs inside the pipe if they cut it short, leaving some of the barbs sticking out. The fitting then won’t set properly, and will come loose at some point, especially under high pressure. 

Lateral pipes should be buried or trenched at least 10 inches deep to protect them from cars driving over them, shovels, and lawn aerators. Unlicensed irrigators bury the pipes too shallow, often 6 inches or less, making them highly susceptible to damage. As well, they often use a cheaper, smaller pipe with a very low flow capacity that plugs up easily. If they also use too much glue on the fittings, they can partially block the flow of water, severely affecting the sprinklers.

Incorrect controller programming

Irrigation controllers have to be programmed correctly to nourish lawns and gardens, and to conserve water and save you money. Unlicensed irrigators improperly program controllers in the following ways:

  • Not caring about or aware of your specific watering days and allowed watering times.
  • Not knowledgeable about the watering needs of your plant materials (overwatering and/or underwatering).
  • Not aware of the cycle and soak irrigation method.
  • Not installing a rain sensor or shutoff device for new systems or when replacing a controller (a TCEQ requirement).
  • Programming all programs (e.g. A, B, C) so they all run, even though you don’t need them (overwatering).
  • Confusing start times with zone run times, and programming start times in all the zones (overwatering).
  • Not knowing how to use the “seasonal adjust” feature.

Sprinkler design, installation, and maintenance is a skilled activity.  Be sure to hire a licensed irrigator.

For prompt and skilled service to your sprinkler system, call the pros at South Austin Irrigation at (512) 534-7449.  

 

Common Sprinkler Problems Part 2 – Trouble with Zones, Valves and Pipes

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Most sprinkler systems, no matter how good they are, will need routine inspection and repair.  

Here is the second part of our trouble-shooting tips.  

Sprinkler Zones Do Not Turn On

If no zones will turn on, see if they’ll run using the manual setting on the controller. If the zones run on manual, you know the controller is good. It just might not be programmed properly or be on the correct setting.

The rain sensor could also be stopping the automatic programming if the ground is already saturated.

If the system doesn’t run in manual mode, do the following to check the controller for power:

  • Ensure the controller’s fuse hasn’t blown (if it has one).
  • Reset any circuit breaker button and try the system again.
  • If plugged into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) receptacle, press the reset button.
  • If the system still isn’t working, check the outlet the power transformer is plugged into.
  • Plug the transformer back in, turn the system off, and test the voltage of the transformer with a multimeter by placing the leads on the transformer terminals marked “24 vac”. Replace the transformer if the reading is less than 24.

You may have to replace the controller if none of the above resolve the issue.

If just one zone isn’t working, the problem is usually an electrical issue or a defective controller or solenoid. To check the controller:

  • Ensure the zone wires are firmly attached to the controller terminals, the transformer is plugged in, and the circuit breaker in the main panel is on.
  • Use a multimeter to check the voltage to the nonworking zone by touching the leads to the common terminal and zone terminal. Replace the controller if the voltage is too low, but above zero (consult your owner’s manual for the required range).
  • If the voltage reading is zero, check the fuse, and replace it if blown.
  • If the controller doesn’t have a fuse, check the voltage of the transformer with the multimeter. The transformer is defective if the voltage is below 24 and needs to be replaced.

Valve Problems

If a valve’s not turning on, check to see if it will turn on manually. Many valves have a lever or switch to activate them without electricity. If the valve works when turned on manually, the problem is most likely with the wiring from the controller to the valve, the wiring at the valve, or the solenoid. Check for any loose or damaged wires and reconnect, repair, or replace them.

Test the solenoid using a multimeter to check the resistance ohms between the common terminal and the terminal for the nonworking zone. If the number is lower than the recommendation in the owner’s manual (usually 20 to 60 ohms), the solenoid switch that activates the sprinklers in that zone is defective and has to be replaced. Any reading above 60, or a reading of zero, indicates a wiring problem.

A stuck valve can prevent your sprinklers from turning on or off. Sometimes this is caused by dirt, debris, or rocks in the valve’s diaphragm. To remedy this, unscrew the solenoid, and allow water to pass through the valve, then close the solenoid. If this doesn’t work, take the faulty valve apart, and use a small screwdriver to remove any debris and rocks from the diaphragm.

Water seeping from sprinkler heads after the controller has turned off the zone is caused by:

  • A torn or damaged diaphragm inside the valve. Rebuild kits are available that include replacement diaphragms.
  • A cracked valve body. Replace the valve.

Broken Pipes and Leaks

One of the causes of low pressure in your irrigation system can be underground leaks. Signs of leaks in the water line include:

  • Water bubbling up from the soil when the system is running.
  • A depression in the ground.
  • A very wet area.
  • Sprinkler heads that are barely shooting water and not popping up properly.
  • Visible geysers.
  • Water meter runs when the sprinkler system is off.

One way of discovering the leak is to look at the area between the last working head and the first nonworking head. Also, if you spot running water, follow it to the highest point to find the source.

If you can’t find the leak, the irrigation line could be obstructed or crushed. Tree roots can grow around a pipe, and over the years constrict it. Sometimes vehicles compress the soil and collapse the water line. These broken pipes are more difficult to find, and you often have to do a lot of digging. Look for the area after the last working head and dig until you find the damaged pipe. If your line runs near a tree, start digging in that area.

There are some quick fixes that are easy to do yourself.  For those that you’d rather not tackle, call the pros at South Austin Irrigation at (512) 534-7449 or complete our online service request form.

Common Sprinkler Problems Part 1 – Trouble with Nozzles and Heads

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Even with trouble-free operation and proper maintenance, many sprinkler systems will occasionally need repair. Identifying problems early will save both water and money. Here are some common sprinkler system problems you can troubleshoot.

Clogged Nozzles

Over time, dirt, sand, lawn mower cuttings, and debris from rain storms can get trapped in the sprinkler filter or nozzle. Clogged heads can produce an erratic spray pattern, or they can rise but not spray, or fail to lower after watering.

To clean the sprinkler head, first ensure the system is off, then pull up the stem of the sprinkler head with a flathead screwdriver. Clamp it with a soft clamping device for sprinklers to prevent it from dropping back into the body. Unscrew the nozzle from the sprinkler and lift out the filter. For spray heads you might need tweezers, and for rotors you’ll need to remove the internal parts to get to the filter at the bottom. Use a small thin wire or toothbrush to unclog the holes in the filter and nozzle and rinse them under water.

To flush out the sprinkler of any additional debris, turn the system on for a minute, then turn it off again. Replace the filter and screw the nozzle back on. Make sure the sprinkler head is working properly by turning the system on once more. Adjust the spray pattern if necessary.

Broken Heads

Broken sprinkler heads are easy to identify. Look for:

  • Cracked or broken plastic casing on the heads
  • Heads that are completely broken off or partially missing.
  • Heads that won’t pop up, retract, or rotate.
  • Puddles or spurts of water around the heads.
  • Water geysers.
  • Water spraying unevenly or not at all.

Broken heads are a common occurrence if they’re set too high, and lawn mowers or vehicles run over them. People can also trip over sprinklers, breaking them. And animals looking for a drink, especially during droughts, will cause damage by chewing on heads and nozzles.

Replacement heads are available at your local home center and online. Make sure you buy one made by the same manufacturer with the same model number. Never mix different types of sprinkler heads in the same zone.

Replace the broken head following these steps:

  • Turn off the system.
  • Dig a hole around the sprinkler head approximately 2 feet in diameter. Use a square shovel and set the sod aside to put back in the hole when the job’s finished.
  • Dig carefully so as not to hit the main lateral line and locate the riser around 8 to 12 inches underground. The riser is a vertical pipe that extends upward from the main irrigation line and connects to the head.
  • Turn the sprinkler head counterclockwise to remove it from the riser. Be careful not to let any dirt fall into the riser. If you find the head difficult to unscrew, use wrenches, or hold the riser with slip joint pliers to keep it from coming loose from the fittings below on the irrigation pipe.
  • Screw the new head onto the riser and turn it hand-tight. Don’t use any thread seal tape or joint compound on the riser threads.
  • Fill in the hole and replace the sod.
  • Reset the desired sprinkler pattern for the new head.

Tilted Heads

Sprinkler heads settle, tilt and sink due to foot traffic, the natural compaction of soil, and being struck by lawn mowers. To straighten the head, remove the sod around it with a square shovel. Carefully dig to remove the dirt around it, then lift and straighten the head. Pack soil under and around the head until it’s level with and perpendicular to the ground and can clear the grass easily when it pops up. Lastly, replace the sod.

There are some quick fixes that are easy to do yourself.  But when it’s time to call in the pros, call South Austin Irrigation at (512) 534-7449 or complete our on line service request form.

Our sprinkler repair service areas include:

  • Austin, TX
  • Lakeway, TX
  • Spicewood, TX
  • Horseshoe Bay, TX
  • Dripping Springs, TX
  • Wimberly, TX

Give us a call for sprinkler repair and service in your area: (512) 534-7449

We Service Many Irrigation Brands:

  • Toro
  • Nelson Turf
  • KRain
  • HydroRain
  • Berkeley
  • Irritrol
  • Rain Bird
  • Rachio
  • Hunter

Payments

South Austin Irrigation accepts Visa and Mastercard